May 4 and 5 - Wandering from Corps of Engineers to Corps of Engineers

It's hot! and it is only early May.

Of course Mississippi and Tennessee are not Maine but still it is hot. The locals say they wonder what July and August will be like this year. We left the Tombigbee Corp of Engineers park and headed roughly north east.

Several more stops along the Natzhez Trace including walking way back in the woods to find that an early pit mine isn't anymore. At least no snakes along the way. We've followed quite a few miles on this road and would highly recommend it for a very leisurly drive. You don't take this road to make time but to enjoy a bit of history and a quiet pace.

We've been travelling, touring, walking and taking in a lot of history sites for the last three weeks and decided to take a down day. Leaving the Trace just north of the monument to Meriweather Lewis, we kept to small roads sout of Memphis. Shocking to get onto I-65 briefly and once again be amongst the 18 wheelers. Luck was with us again or is all that good, clean living? :) and we got a waterfront camp site at the Corps of Engineers Ragland Bottom CG on the Caney Fork River. There was a cancellation and we decided to stay two nights just to rest up and get the camper/truck cleaned up a bit. The dam is being worked on so the river was quite low but not enough to stop a fascinating parade of fishing boats, party boats and canoes/kayaks. Nice neighbors shared fresh caught fish and sweet potato with us. We gave back some smoked salmon.

Relaxing day today. Caught up on laundry, cleaning the inside of the camper and just resting by the river. Neighbors brought over some smoked pork BBQ saying they knew northerners never got it that good. I'm afraid they were right! Again we have a 5th wheel group who travels with a smoker on wheels like you would see at a fair. Big, ugly and cooks fabulous meat.

We are so fortunate to have a truck camper. Easy to manuver, large enough for our needs, small enough to get into places the 5ths and TTs and As will never go. Yes I know our camper is one of the bigger ones but we can still fit down a lot of our country's small spaces.

Tomorrow we will head east, braving the traffic through Knoxville and ending up somewhere in far western VA or northern TN. There are National Forest campsites, more COEs and who knows where we will end up. We're pretty well headed home but surely will find more to see and do along the way.

May 1 to 3 Natchez, Vicksburg and CoE Waterway

Up early and into Natchez before the heat hits. Downtown Natchez is actually quite small and easy to walk around. There are many small side streets where the truck camper easily fit so we moved from area to area.

A lot of the town buildings near the waterfront had balconies like New Orleans with cafe tables for that first morning cup of coffee. The flowers were plentiful, smelled like the south  and even the magnolia was in bloom.

We drove by many of the old mansions on the bluff. Chosing not to take a carriage ride or visit the many casinos, we started off on our trek up the Natchez Trace. This route was originally used by the Chokataw Indians for trade routes, then used by early settlers to move goods from Natchez to Memphis.

Inns and small towns grew up along the way and finally the road was abandoned for wider roads through towns. The depth of this old trace is amazing as it was worn down by foot and wagon traffic.

The Trace is now under National Park management and is a very well maintained two lane road with many turnouts to see historical or natural sights. No commercial vehicles are allowed, speed limit is 45-50 mph and it is very relaxing to drive. There are also three free campgrounds along the route as well as roads off it to get to diesel or other services. We cruised through one of the campgrounds just to see what they were like. Paved, level, boondock, well spaced and a bath house. It's early season and the one we went through had one camper.

The NPS has a brochure with every stop along the Trace marked by mile marker. You can look ahead and pick out the ones that interest you the most. We stopped at several Indian mounds and many of the natural sites such as swamps and old growth forests. That made good walks and travel breaks.

Arriving in Vicksburg, we went to a campground where it would be easier to take the camper off and feel safe about leaving it while we explored. Not a lot of choices and the one we were in was tight quarters. Very nice couple next door from Michigan who were camped for months for his work on a nuclear power plant rebuild. They were in a very old travel trailer and they spent a lot of time examining the truck camper and how it worked. TCs are pretty impressive aren't they?

May 2 - Vicksburg tour

Up early again - you think it might be the time zone change? Camper off the truck and over to start the day with a tour through the Vicksburg National Military Park Museum. We watched the film made on the battle for and siege of Vicksburg.

I'd never realized the length of the siege, how many died and that the surrender at Vicksburg and Gettysburg were on the same weekend. The campground had provided us with a narrative CD for the 16 mile long driving tour through the park. Learned a lot, walked a lot of paths to see memorials, views out over battlefields and several houses of civilians who lived in the middle of the battle.

We spent a long time walking around and through the USS Cairo, a gun ship sunk by the Confederates using a wired mine. It was found and raised 100 years later and been as restored as it can be. It'd thought it would be quite small but it wasn't. As interesting as the ship was, the museum at the ship site was more so with all the artifacts brought up and restored. The ship sank in 12 minutes with no loss of life but everything was left behind. The cemetary for the war dead was quite sobering.

Huge thunderstorm with very dark clouds came and we got the camper situated between two tall hills in the park hoping not to have a repeat of a tornado sighting. Torrential quick rain but no funnel thank you very much. We did a drive through of downtown Vicksburg, being too tired for more walking. The Mississippi is quite impressive in width. We did find this flood gauge down on the riverfront. 

May 3 - Natchez Trace and Corps of Engineers Piney Grove CG

Today was a travel day northward along the Natchez Trace. Took a half hour walk on a boardwalk back into a cypress swamp and later walked to what was supposed to be a beaver lodge - not.

Tonight we are camped in Piney Grove Corp of Engineers Park again on the Tombigbee Waterway. $10 - lake on three sides of us, paved level spot, water, power, utter quiet except for the small waves coming in from passing barges. Unfortunately the site is reserved for the weekend or we would be here a few days. Might move to another one further back and take some time to clean up this road weary camper and couple.

April 30 to May 1 - Florida to Alabama to Mississippi to Louisiana

April 30 to May 1 - Florida to Alabama to Mississippi to Louisiana

No we didn't cross four states in one day. We decided it was time to head inland away from the ocean and back into country. Route 331 from Grayton Beach, Florida crosses into Alabama at Florala. We've passed back into cow country with a side of paper company forests all in a row ready to harvest. I wonder how much of the south is owned by paper companies? The acreage must be huge as every where you look there are pines matured to various sizes. The other reason you know you are in paper company? The log trucks that barrel by and the smell of a processing plant. Good steady jobs I would imagine and the re-seeding is pretty evident to keep the "crop" coming.

At Opp, AL we switched over to Route 84 which is what we all call a red road. Shows up red on maps, is usually in pretty good shape but offers a trip through the back country. Talk about red - the land is red here with many fields being bright red. It's dry here and I can imagine that red turns to mud pretty easily as it is so fine.

Hot today - I mean for us it was HOT - 90F and humid for the first time. Even though I was raised as a southerner, I just don't handle heat like this well anymore. Joe was sweltering. Our plans to head to Arizona have been put on hold for a winter trip. The idea of trying to take walks in desert country in 100+F just isn't appealing at all. Our house sitter said it was 28F the other morning in Maine with a frost. Quite the difference.

The best kept secret in camping is the Corp of Engineers campgrounds. Tonight we are in a camp near Coffeeville, AL on the Tombigbee River. This river goes all the way to Mobile and also further north from here. We've had quite the parade of beautiful 30-40 foot cabin cruisers go by. Last there was a barge pushed by a tug that brought Coast Guard memories back for Joe. The river is controlled by a series of locks and is at full height. Our camp site is large, level with a gravel area for the picnic table, power, water, and a dump station - all for $10.00. That's taking advantage of the Golden Age Passport but $10?? If this were elsewhere it would easily be a $45 site. Don't tell anyone!

Again we will wander in the morning but are now thinking about heading north along the Mississippi or maybe follow the Georgia mountains into NC. Cooler there? Wimps? Yes but hey somebody has to be it.

May 1 - Natchez and Louisiana

We decided to keep on Route 84 over to Natchez and then up to Vicksburg. Tonight we are actually across the Mississippi River in Vadalia, Louisiana. Camping in LA now counts camping in all the states except NJ, Alaska and Hawaii. No idea how we've skipped NJ?

We spent so much time in the Natchez Visitor center that we didn't get into town. The wealth of history, exhibits, documents, photos is astonishing. There was a docent talking about life on the river back in plantation times from both the owner and slave point of view. We followed her along as she talked about history after the Civil War, the Depression and finally the emergence of a thriving new culture for all.

Walked along the river to watch the barges. Four containers wide and 5 long, they carry a lot of goods up and down the river. Walked the top of a levee also. It is about 15 feet high and a couple of hundred yards back from the river. The locals we talked to said the last big flood, the river went over the bank and also over the levee.

Tomorrow we'll go into Natchez, walk the river area, drive back in the old houses and then head along the Natchez Trace to Vicksburg. It's almost 8PM and still 84F with big thunderstorm clouds in the distance.

April 29 Florida Panhandle

April 29 - Florida Panhandle

I thought the coast of Florida might have a little elevation. NOT! Now I see how devastating the big hurricanes can be. Route 98 runs right along the Gulf of Mexico, passing small towns, fishing fleets and houses, both old style and new McMansions. The houses on the ocean side are all three stories tall with the first two stories looking like cranes up on long legs. Living space appears to be on top which must give you a good workout whenever you get home. We saw a lot of vacant lots which had at one time held a house. A lot of new houses also including massive condo projects. We were also surprised at the density of large trees so the hurricanes don't get everything.

Apalachicola is a jewel and home to a fishing culture. We'd wanted to stop for oysters but since we were passing through on Sunday morning, the vendors were closed. Town is interesting to walk through as it isn't really "touristy". We saw two other truck campers parked but never caught up with their owners. One had Wyoming plates, the other Michigan and you wonder if they were traveling together. Pelicans are everywhere and tend to group on the bridge pylons. They look like flying dinosaurs.




Laundry is the bane of traveling and every once in a while just has to be done. Grayson Beach State Park is a smaller Florida campground with well separated sites. We always opt for a smaller site with power if possible but no need for water or dump as they are usually available from a central area. Laundry done, temperature hovering at 88F, we opted to take a relaxing afternoon by the camper. Evening brought a walk on the powdery sugar like sand  - very hard on the legs. We've got to figure out how to carry bicycles. Too many good bike paths all over the south to pass up. Course that means relearning how to ride a bike!

We did get our seafood. The park ranger, a local, recommended GoatFeathers. Thinking the portoions would be small we both got the small seafood platter. One would hve fed both of us and we like seafood. Huge Apalachicola oysters, shrimp, fish with grated horseradish. Had the second platter for a late supper at the camper outside with no bugs around.

Where are we headed? We don't know but probably north through Alabama and then over to Vicksburg.

April 27 to April 28 - Beaufort, SC - Okefenokee Swamp - Ochlockonee FL

Hunting Island Lighthouse was a bit of a disappointment after all the Maine lighthouses over the years. It's small but perfectly preserved. The nature center next to it was good with a lot of history of the island. It was a hunting preserve for a rich family who eventually donated it to the state. Again a lot of beautiful land saved from development.

The moss and live oak trees dominate the roadway. Our Maine friend told us he'd learned that the Spanish Moss is actually a relative to the pineapple!

Leaving Beaufort, we crossed by Parris Island and thought of all those Marine recruits who've trained there. Thanks to all of them for serving our country. We'd planned on hopping on Route 95 for a short while but fortunately the Georgia Tourist Welcome Center told us of the President's visit to Fort Stewart. She suggested to not try to go that way as long delays were possible. We did our usual 62 mph down I-95 to Route 84 waving at quite a few truck campers as we went.

I'd always wanted to take a boat ride through the Okefenokee Swamp to see alligators. Georgia's Laura Walker State Park had an opening but we were warned it wasn't very level. Most state parks are full and some have wait lists. So far we've been lucky in getting in. Joe used all our leveling blocks and got us nice and level. I was thankful for the extra foot stool or I'd never have reached the camper stairs. Chatted a long time with a group of folks who had gathered for a geocache rally. The people across the way gifted us with fresh Vidalia onions. They had a big 5th wheel and were pulling a BBQ smoker rig which was putting out some great odors. We actually saw several big rigs hauling smokers.

Unfortunately there wasn't a boat that went way out into the swamp and we settled for a train ride. We don't usually do the real tourist things but it turned out to be fairly interesting. Pioneers who lived in the swamp to cut cypress, make turpentine and skin gators lived a very hard life.

Don't think I want to go swimming in a swamp

April 28 - Ochlockonee Florida
Up and out early for a provisions stop and to see if we could find a place to overnight in Florida. We know that the Florida state parks fill up when reservations open first of the year but hoped for a cancellation. The Cracker Barrels and Walmarts are okay for passing through but it's so much more enjoyable to find a camp where you can enjoy the land around you. Lucked out and got a place in the Ochlockonee State Park on a river. 85F but very dry and a nice breeze so the bugs were minor.
Ranger took us for a short walk into the saw grass/pine areas and explained how Florida is trying to restore the natural rhythm of fire in the parks. Spring thunderstorms start fires, the saw grass dies back, re seeds itself and creates a short under story. The pines are just about fire resistant once they get above grass height. There were long paths through these areas and we had a hot but interesting walk.

We'd hoped to find good seafood and a place to stay in the Apalachicola or Destin area but bet everything is full. Joe's old boss at his last job lives near Pensacola so we can camp there if needed. Wish we had some Truck Camper friends along on this trek. Neither of us had camped in Georgia or Florida and we still have Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana to go!

April 25 to 26 Myrtle Beach to Beaufort, SC
April 25 - Myrtle Beach

So good to have the truck serviced and know that nothing is wrong with it. Main concern always with a camper are brakes and tires and all were well within limits. Beach Ford in Myrtle Beach was very welcoming, professional and fast. Since the camper was off we decided to take a ride down along the small beach towns south of Myrtle Beach. Locals know the trick of turning left off of main roads into side roads. It was rather daunting to first timers but we eventually figured it out without injury to us or locals.

Surfside Beach is supposed to be one of the oldest planned resort communities. Lots of new pods of buildings, all in bright colors and up on stilts - way up on stilts, almost tall enough to put a truck camper under. I kept wondering even up that high, how many of those cottages would survive a
major hurricane.


The landscaping is lush and well cared for. We stopped and watched a crew installing 20' tall palm trees down a center divider. Cranes lifted the trees which had the smallest root ball I've ever seen. The roots looked about the same size as the trunk. Someone later told us they are extra heavy trees due to the water they hold and the weight alone is enough to keep them upright in storms. We've seen dozens of varieties of palms from tall to ground huggers. The smells from the flowers in bloom especially the Confederate jasmine is always around.

Managed to once again get back on Route 17 without injury and continued down to Murrells Inlet looking for seafood for lunch. "River Ratz" was excellent, a local hang out with fresh local seafood. We split a plate of oysters, shrimp and drum with hush puppies and had some left over. I'd remembered the normal size portions of southern food so glad we split a plate. After, we took a long walk down the river boardwalk, enjoying seabirds including pelicans and the rafts of huge pleasure boats.

Back at MB State Park, we relaxed and talked with a retired Army man who gave us a lot of local tips for our trip across the Florida pan handle. Like any good camper, he gave us his phone number and address in case we had any trouble along the way. Campers are good people. I kept my feet up on the picnic table the whole time we talked having just seen a sign up the camp office to beware of copperhead snakes. !!

April 26 Beaufort, SC
Route 17 is under construction - a lot of construction all the way from Georgetown to the south side of Charleston. It is being widened to two lanes both ways. Slow going but it gave us a chance to really enjoy the forest views along the way. Charleston has exploded with new malls, traffic stops, and lots and lots of traffic. Since we have been many times, we skipped going into old Charleston this time in favor of heading on to Beaufort. Our goal in coming here was to visit a Maine friend who has moved to Beaufort and to camp on Hunting Island. We met him in the Beaufort Waterfront Park and walked along with him as he gave us a guided tour of some of the hidden gems of the city. Four big tour buses had just pulled in and rather than fight for a place at one of the waterfront cafes, we walked back to a new farm stand/bistro in the library complex.

We're currently at Hunting Island State Park. First person we talked to while setting up was another truck camper owner and Truck Camper Warehouse customer with a Arctic Fox 1140. We are tucked into a camp site 100 yards from the ocean, behind a dune and under some of the tallest palm trees. Here's what it looks like out our back camper window. We lucked out on a walk in site and got a really good one.

It's been fascinating to see the long line of pelicans fly back and forth. Here's the view out of our dinette window. Hard to take, feet up resting from trekking, strong wind to keep the bugs away and an endless supply of iced tea.

Tomorrow we'll drive over to the Hunting light house for a visit and then head south. Don't know where but south.

April 23 - 24 Hatteras to Myrtle Beach, SC

April 23 - 24 Hatteras to Myrtle Beach, SC

Monday, April 23
After a very soggy night at Frisco Woods CG at the tip of OBX, we boarded the ferry to Ocracoke Island. It was soggy because of the amount of rain they have received. Most of the sites were under water. We now understand why all the truck camper fishermen like this campground. You can get right out on the sand and fish from your rear door.

As we left harbor, we passed a Coast Guard Life Boat Station with two patrol boats used for rescue. Later saw them at full speed heading out to sea. I cross my fingers every time we see them go out and thank them for serving. Joe spent 20+ years in the Coast Guard but never on that small a boat.

It wasn't a smooth crossing to Ocracoke but fascinating to stand on the stern and watch all the sea birds. They come out to the ferries from the smaller barrier islands and follow along. We even saw pelicans which are not exactly a Maine bird.

It must be both  awesome and terrifying to be on Ocracoke during a big sea storm. This is the road from the ferry into town.

We stopped and walked the beach for a couple of hours with the result of aching legs later. The beach just makes you go on and on to see more. Since the tide was coming in, we finally left and went on into town for lunch.

Fresh drum sandwiches with hush puppies!!  Hard to get more southern than that plus the unending iced tea. The ferry ride over to Cedar Island wasn't as rough but lots longer. Route 12 inland is a very narrow two lane road with marshes on both sides. Since there was a high wind, the drive down to Croatan National Forest just north of Emerald Isle to a campsite wasn't easy or fun.

Tuesday, April 24
Skirting Jacksonville but staying on Route 17 after that, we wended down to Myrtle Beach. Joe was raised in Old Orchard Beach, Maine which is a tourist town in summer and ghost town in winter. Myrtle Beach is like OOB on steroids with more tourist "Places" than I've ever seen. It stretches for miles and miles with traffic lights every few blocks. We were glad to arrive at Myrtle Beach State Park which is a 300+ acre oasis of trees, trails, sand, beach and very nice campsites. We did more beach walking to see a lot of dead jelly fish and very hard packed sand. I kept thinking Truck Campers would love to get out on this beach!

Tomorrow we get the truck serviced and then head south - or west - or anywhere but north again at this point.

April to Who Knows - On the Road in 2012

April 2012 - We're on the road again

Starting from Maine, headed to Assateague National Seashore, then an annual rally of truck campers at Tall Pines in Sanford, VA., Hatteras and onward.
Our adventure started by heading over to Truck Camper Warehouse in W. Chesterfield, NH to have a crack in our Chalet camper's bath ceiling fixed. The wire chase as designed was so wide it was bending and breaking the vinyl ceiling cover. Bill Penny cleaned it, put in a thin wooden floor and foamed the wide opening. Worked perfect and the vinyl is holding well with no flexing. We also had a Max Air cover put on the bath fan so it can stay open in the rain.

April 13-17
Half way down from NH to VA we stopped in the Delaware Water Gap and camped at Dingman's Ferry at a National Park campsite. Love that Golden Age pass half rate. Clean, wide sites with power. Skirting Philadelphia and only getting on I-95 briefly, we kept southward to Assateague National Seashore. A local told us about The Southern Grille so we stopped for lunch. If you are ever near Ellendale, stop! They serve southern food like my grandmothers used to cook.

Had reservations for Monday and Tuesday night at Assateague on the Bayside C loop where it isn't as windy as the ocean. We lucked out and got the same site for Saturday and Sunday. What a wonder this National Park is. Roaming herds of wild horses, baby turtles and huge terrapins, shore birds, and endless miles of walking trails to explore. Even the boardwalks out into the marshes have horse dung as the horses go everywhere. Toni/Ron from MA, Bob/Carol Ann from NY, and Rob/Jennie from MA were also camped there. Lots of chat about places to go and see and sharing of food and drink with us TCers and a tent couple who were there also. After even a mild winter in Maine, it was such a delight to walk the warm beaches, pick up shells and then, feet up, sit and knit in the sun.

The last night there we were all thinking tornado? These clouds were awesome but stayed where clouds should - up in the air.

April 18-22

Time to gather at the Mid-Atlantic Truck Camper Rally at Tall Pines Campground in Sanford, VA. Campers gather from the far west to Canada to spend days visiting, attending seminars, a band with line dancing, pot lucks, rodeos and a good bye breakfast. Michelle and Ron Humphress do a great job organizing this much enjoyed rally.

As usual the North East group gathered for drinks and a buffet at Mike's tent.

The weather held until Sunday morning when the deluge bagan. We travelled across the Bay Bridge Tunnel and were very glad to see the land appear through the rain. As usual we made a wrong turn in Norfolk to head south but at least were able to stop and turn the propane back on.
OBX is a real mix of tourist commercial, bare beaches, national land and sea birds. The folks who live out here continually live with washed out roads and drifting sand with deep puddles on the roads.

Huge flocks of seabirds land on the bare sand at low tides. We don't get these sands in Maine and they are a hard but interesting walk.

Diesel was $4.03 near Assateague, $4.18 in Norfolk, and a whopping $4.38 at the end of OBX. It's got to get here somehow so the price goes up. We'll diesel up tomorrow after we get off the ferry at Cedar Island. We'll head on down the NC coast with the eventual goal of Florida Panhandle and Arizona? Who knows?